Understanding Approach Shoes: Features & Functionality

If approach shoes had a motto, it would be: “Getting there is half of the fun.”

Designed to wear on the hike into climbing, ice climbing, and mountaineering routes, approach shoes may seem niche, but they have a broad application: to keep you surefooted and comfortable in technical terrain.

Because climbing and mountaineering routes are often remote and require off-trail traveling or scrambling to access, the approach requires footwear that can keep your feet comfortable for long hikes but can also stay grippy and sticky on rock, talus, and scree. Choosing the right approach shoe for the terrain you’re in and the objective you’re taking on — from trail runner–inspired designs for fast and light missions to burlier, waterproof designs for long hauls in remote zones — ensures that your gear can support your efforts and won’t bring you down.

We’re breaking down everything you need to know about approach shoes — and choosing the right shoe for your needs — so you can get the most out of every kilometre and climb.

What Are Approach Shoes?

If a trail running shoe and a climbing shoe had a baby, there would be the approach shoe. Inspired by the support and comfort of hiking- or running-specific designs while honouring the technical features of climbing shoes, they thread the needle so you can move fast and light while still having features like sticky rubber, a protective rand (the rubber around the upper of the shoe), and a stiffer midsole for extra support and stability on rock.

Perfect for scrambling up seriously steep grades and traversing technical terrain like boulder fields and talus, approach shoes excel at protecting your feet and ensuring stability on rock features without the commitment (and discomfort) of aggressive climbing shoes, which are designed specifically for vertical movement — not hiking or scrambling.

How Are Approach Shoes Different from Hiking Shoes?

Even though the approach to a climb is often a hike, there are specific cases where a hiking shoe isn’t the right fit for the job. Approach shoes excel on objectives that require scrambling on ridges and rock faces, especially when there are short sections of technical climbing. When you’re scrambling, you need to be able to trust your feet — these are committing moves. Hiking shoes aren’t made to handle smearing or even regular abrasion against rock. This is where approach shoes excel with features like toe rands and specialized rubber.

Key Features of Approach Shoes

Outsole Design

Approach shoes are defined by their burly outsoles, which are made of the same sticky rubber you find on the soles of climbing shoes — but with some updates, of course, like deep lugs and tread patterns designed to maintain traction in varied terrain. Fortunately, you don’t have to sacrifice durability and protection for a lightweight fit, though, with next-gen approach shoe models. The Arc’teryx Vertex Alpine GTX, for example, offers waterproof protection and deep 4mm lugs — and weighs in at just 12 ounces per shoe.

Toe Protection

One of the defining characteristics that sets approach shoes apart from hiking and trail running shoes is the reinforced toe cap and rand (which runs around the midsole). The toe cap and rand protect the shoe from repeated abrasion against rock and allow you to smear and edge with extra precision and traction when scrambling or on low-grade climbing moves.

Heel & Midsole

Technical climbing capabilities are an important qualification for approach shoes. But arguably just as important is the shoe’s comfort, since these shoes are the ones you’ll rely on for long approaches and hours spent traversing and hiking. Look for a shoe that has a cushioned heel for long-wearing comfort and a stiff midsole (bonus points for a carbon or TPU shank) for added stability on uneven terrain and protection from hard and sharp objects underfoot.

Upper Materials

The upper (the part of a shoe that covers the sides and top of your foot, and includes the tongue, heel cup, and laces) can make or break the long-term durability and performance of an approach shoe.

For breathability (which is a quality best suited for hot climates or objectives that require a well-draining and quick-drying shoe), opt for synthetic uppers like mesh and textiles without waterproof fabrics or treatments.

For on-snow and alpine environments and objectives, synthetic waterproof and leather uppers excel.

Fit & Comfort

Much like with a climbing shoe, approach shoes perform best with a snug fit. The fit shouldn’t be so tight that it’s uncomfortable, but a close fit allows for better control and precision with smearing on slabs and staying on small footholds.

If you are wearing your approach shoes for longer, mostly on-trail approaches, you can opt for a “comfort fit” by taking a half-size up from your normal size. This will increase your room for foot splay for long-wearing days, but it will compromise the precision of the shoe. In this case, it’s important to choose a shoe with a lacing system that allows you to customize the fit. Extended lacing (which covers more of the upper) and integrated webbing are two features that allow you to tailor the fit of your shoe for added security and control.

What to Look for In an Approach Shoe

When it comes to adding another shoe to your gear closet, approach shoes fill a unique gap. But to get the most out of their durability, technical capabilities, and comfort on hikes, there are a few key qualities the model you choose needs to have.

Durability

Approach shoes are made to stand up to scraping, stemming, smearing, and stubbing rocks while being able to hold up underfoot even after seasons of use. The integration between the sole and upper — protected by the toe cap and rand — shields the shoe from abrasion while also increasing its technical capability.

Comfort

The great tradeoff usually made with technical performance shoes is comfort. Historically, if you wanted a surefooted, stable shoe with a sticky sole, you wouldn’t be able to wear it long without discomfort. And if you opted for a more comfortable shoe that wore well over long days, it wouldn’t have the specific climbing-informed features needed to perform in technical terrain.

But thanks to innovations in ergonomic design, like cushioned insteps and heels, along with lightweight stabilizing features like TPU plates and integrated mesh-webbed lacing, that tradeoff is a thing of the past. Long-wearing comfort is key when choosing an approach shoe that has all the performance capability you need for Class 4 and Class 5 terrain.

Weight

One truth about approach shoes is that at some point, you’ll be swapping them out for mountaineering boots or climbing shoes and carrying them. Having to lug around heavy approach shoes — whether it’s just for a day on a walk-off multipitch or for expedition-style mountaineering or climbing trips — doesn’t have to be the reality anymore. As new materials like CORDURA mesh and Vibram XS Flash 2 rubber are integrated into approach shoe designs, a lightweight (but still burly) shoe that can handle rugged days is a reality. Now you don’t have to weigh the options (literally) of having the right gear with you for your objective or leaving it behind.

When to Use Approach Shoes

Approach shoes are great for exactly what their name implies: hiking into and approaching climbing and mountaineering routes that require you to swap into technical boots or climbing shoes for vertical travel.

But these shoes are a bit like a multitool — and are great for standalone objectives, too. Approach shoes are ideal for technical ridge scrambles, low-grade climbing, off-trail travel through boulder fields or rocky terrain, and any technical hike where you want a little more durability and security.

When your travel becomes anything more than a few short vertical climbing sections or above the treeline and snowline, that’s when it’s time to switch to climbing shoes or technical boots.

Arc'teryx Approach Shoe Innovations

Everything we design at Arc’teryx begins with long days spent in the Coast Mountains of British Columbia. The demands of our local objectives have created the demands we have for our designs, and that’s led to unique innovations over the years, like the trailrunner–informed designs made to move fast and light, as well as shoes made with waterproof uppers and heavier rubber soles for added grip and durability.

By combining design features that emphasize durability, comfort, and versatility, Arc’teryx approach shoes are made to deliver the performance needed in technical terrain, and real-world reviews from athletes prove it. “Usually on multi-day trips I bring trail runners to hike in and change into approach shoes for the climbing. This summer I found myself only bringing one shoe, the Vertex Alpine, and leaving the trail runners behind because of how comfortable my feet were at the end of each day,” Nik, an American Mountain Guide Association guide, writes. “I’ve worn them on almost every day of guiding this year and they’re still going strong.”

As athletes and customers continue to push the limits in the mountains, we’ll push our designs to stay on the leading edge — and the approach.

How to Choose the Right Approach Shoes

To choose the right approach shoes for your needs, there are a few factors to consider:

Terrain: Do you live in a wet climate or spend a lot of your time hiking in snowy conditions? If so, a waterproof GORE-TEX shoe may be right for you. If you spend most of your time scrambling and in Class 5 terrain, durability and weight should be top of mind, so look for approach shoes with a leather- or mesh-constructed upper.

Sizing: Remember, approach shoes should fit snugly to optimize precision for committing moves. If you prefer a roomier fit, make sure the approach shoe you buy has a lacing system that allows you to cinch the upper for a customized fit that optimizes the performance of the shoe.

Maintenance: Waterproof and leather shoes are more difficult to maintain than shoes made with synthetic uppers. If you have leather approach shoes, make sure to recondition the leather once a season so that the water repellency stays active and the leather doesn’t crack. If your waterproof shoes get wet, make sure you dry them out completely between wears to prevent order, mildew, and mold from building up. For synthetic mesh shoes, wipe them off with a damp cloth after muddy days to extend the life of the shoe. Learn more about proper care for your approach shoes.

Still wondering which approach shoe is right for you? We’ve got a Footwear Finder for that.

Final Thoughts

Approach shoes are niche, but they excel in a variety of alpine environments and objectives, making them a necessity for many mountain athletes. With a little bit of background on which features and functions make these the right choice for the day, you can find the perfect pair of approach shoes for your needs.

Shop Arc'teryx men’s approach shoes and women’s approach shoes or visit a local retailer for a fitting.

FAQs

Are approach shoes supposed to be tight?

Approach shoes should not be uncomfortably tight (or even as tight as a climbing shoe), but should fit snugly for optimal precision and stability.

Can you use approach shoes at the climbing gym?

Unless you want to bring them to walk into the gym and approach the wall to show other gym-goers that you climb outside, approach shoes aren’t the best tool for indoor climbing.

Should you size up in approach shoes?

We recommend that you take your normal size in approach shoes to ensure a snug fit. No need to size down. If you size up a half-size for a more comfortable fit, it’s best to opt for a shoe that has a customizable lacing system so you can achieve a more precise fit around the bridge of your foot.

How durable are approach shoes?

Good approach shoes are durable. The rubber soles, lugs, and upper should last for multiple seasons when properly maintained.

Can I climb in approach shoes?

Approach shoes are good for technical hikes that require short climbing sections and moves and scrambling, but we don’t recommend climbing vertical routes (single pitch or otherwise) in approach shoes. That’s what climbing shoes are for!

Can approach shoes get wet?

Some approach shoes are actually made to get wet. The specialty rubber on the soles of certain approach shoes maintains its traction on wet rock. Additionally, GORE-TEX and DWR-treated uppers help keep your feet dry in wet conditions.

Do approach shoes have stiff soles?

Yes. One of the defining characteristics of approach shoes is their stiff, thick-rubbered soles, which provide protection and stability.